small world sailing

Black Point »« Staniel Cay

Staniel Cay 2

N24.10.98 W76.27.54
Staniel Cay

Odd day, at 11 this morning I uped anchor and headed for the main harbour. Once through the channel now on the flood tide I anchored off on a sand bank but it was blowing a bit and the bank had a lot of grass on it so the anchor didn’t take well. So I uped anchor again and headed closer to the marina in the hope that the land would offer better protection from the wind and the sea bed would be less grassy, neither was the case. The anchor was holding though so I decided I would go ashore for some provisions and a look about.

The ‘Public Beach’ as it was signed on which I landed was filthy, trash and junk and a dead bird, this looks good I thought. As I wandered into the village most people ignored me and I felt unhappy to be there, most peoples yards had large piles of junk in them, these people just don’t look after what they’ve got. I wandered up the hill where the Pilot book says there is a store and tried the door, it wouldn’t budge but there was loud African protest music coming from it so I guessed someone was about. I found an older stout black lady sitting in the shade and asked if the store was open. She looked, waited, sat and eventually moved off her behind summoning me with her finger. To say she was not happy, it seemed, to be serving me is probably the understatement of the century and I feel like I was thourally ripped off with the few meager provisions I picked up, I did get my bug spray and I did pick up some home made Banana bread which she indicated she had made with a grunt. I also picked up an apple as a special treat.

These are not your normal corner shops, these are rooms in peoples houses given over to the a store. The provisions are scarce and dam expensive. There was no fresh bread, meat, fish or veg.

I went back to the boat without stopping to look about at the village, a mangy dog went by as I was walking back and I felt I’d had enough of ‘Civilization’.

I still had to get rid of my rubbish so I dropped that in the dingy and thought I’d try my luck at the Island Store, which the chart book said offered trash collection for a small fee. The one main dock on the island had a small cargo ship offloading and it transpires this was the stores they had been waiting for, I didn’t hang around to find out what had been brought in and besides, I doubt I could afford it. I did get coke for the Rum though and I did get rid of the rubbish.

I’d been looking forward to a walk round Staniel so I’m disappointed it was such a dump and the people so unfriendly. Odd when you consider the entire country is so dependent on tourism. Then again if you were living in relative poverty and the only source of income was rich gits in big power yachts (there are 7 in this anchorage tonight) then you’d probably be miserable too.

In the end as there are no good anchorages near the settlement anyway, I opted for Big Majors Spot. As I came round the headland I was surprised to see so many boats, weaving in and out of them to find a good spot was just like being at home. The most number of boats I’ve anchored with so far is two. There must be over a dozen here.

Back in the dingy I took a long ride back round the coast to ‘Thunderball Grotto’ as made famous by the James bond film. I’d emptied the contents of a small can of mixed veg into a ziplock bag and shoved this down my shorts, donning flippers and snorkel I entered the cave. Quite spectacular, an underwater entrance opening out into a large cave with a hole in the roof letting in sunlight, totally cool and instantly made the visit worth while. Up to that point I’d wished I’d not bothered. Removing the bag from my shorts I emptied the contents and was engulfed by all manor of beautiful fish going absolutely crazy. It was so cool I can’t tell you, highlight of the trip so far.

On the way back I called in at the beach off which I’m anchored. Big Major wasn’t there but his spouse was and she came out to great me in the Dingy. I have pictures of swimming pigs! Tomorrow I will take big Major my apple core.


July 6, 2007 at 00:38
Leave a Reply or trackback